Swain 1990

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Swain, Margaret. Embroidered Stuart Pictures. Haverfordwest: Shire Publications, Ltd., 1990.

prints as patterns -- "Such prints were used as pattern sources by silver-smiths, wood or stone carver and tapestry designers, as well as by professional embroiderers. Amateur needlewomen could use them as well." (5; see Hunter 2010 on "paper tapestries")

cabinet worked on vellum and paper; cabinet holds five mirrors arranged to reflect a story painted on the paper lining of the cabinet (10-11)

miniature gardens worked on boxes (13)

page 15, unmounted panels for a mirror frame -- show how parts would be disassembled and reassembled

bookbindings

  • "it appears to have been a particularly English custom to enclose precious books or presentation copies in covers of needlework" (16)
  • earliest known: manuscript copy of Psalms, written in 13c and covered in 14c, owned by Ane Felbrigge, a nun in Bruisyard, Suffolk; now at Bodleian
  • "Other books with textile covers in velvet and silk survive, but the greatest number, many of them pictorial, appear to belong to the first half of the seventeenth century. Moset of them are professional work." (16)
    • petition submitted to Archbishop Laud in 1638 by milliners, on behalf of embroiderers working in their own homes who had covered books for the gentry (17)

some amateur embroidered book bindings -- Psalms of 1633, small (4"x3" with a raised design of vine and rose spray, cover worked by Elizabeth, wife of Matthew Wren, Bishop of Ely (17)

"nuns of Little Gidding" claimed to have embroidered bookbindings, but none extant

"illustrated volumes of Old Testament history flooded Protestant countries after the Reformation. English publishers pirated the illustrations, adding an English text. Pattern drawers, who drew out he scenes on to linen or satin for working in the appropriate technique, borrowed the figures, often clothing them in contemporary fashion. Kings and queens of the Old Testament were given the faces of the Stuart monarches, taken also from engravings." (17-18)

pg 22, Gunpowder Plot print; slips worked separately

prints as sources for patterns, 25f.

professional embroiderers: Edmund Harrison, Mr. Rutlish, George Pinckney,