Levey 1998

Levey, Santina M. An Eliabethan Inheritance: The Hardwick Hall Textiles. London: The National Trust, 1998.

metal thread embroidery, "highly skilled and when combined with fine wool or silk it was the preserve of the professional male embroiderer"; applique, also (42)

"Seamstresses were responsible for pieces stitched with linen thread, but those worked with silk and metal were produced by the silkwomen, who were importers and dealers in metal threads and raw silk, which they also turned into thread and a variety of braids, fringes and other types of passementerie. As decorated linen became increasingly fashionable, this developed into a specialist branch of their work. It was also practised by skilled amateurs but it was never taken up by the professional male embroiderers." (43)